Standing seam and panel metal roofing in Vancouver, WA

Metal roofing has grown popular around Vancouver because it suits our climate well. Rain and fir needles slide off smooth panels, moss struggles to take hold, and properly fastened panels resist wind better than most other roofing. A well-built metal roof can last decades longer than asphalt shingles, which offsets part of its higher upfront cost over the life of the home.

We install two main types: standing seam, with hidden fasteners and raised seams joining each panel, and exposed-fastener ribbed panels, common on shops, barns and budget-conscious projects. This page explains the differences, what goes under the panels, how we handle chimneys and vents, and how metal compares in cost. Metal roof repair has its own page if you already have one that needs work.

Standing seam vs exposed-fastener panels

Standing seam panels run from eave to ridge and lock together along raised seams. The fasteners sit under the seam, hidden from weather, and clips let the panels expand and contract with temperature. That design has no exposed screws to wear out, so it is the top choice for homes and long-term durability. It costs more because the panels are cut and shaped to length and the installation takes more skill. It is our usual pick for homes.

Exposed-fastener panels, often called ribbed or corrugated panels, are fastened through the face with screws that have rubber washers. They cost less and install faster, which makes them common on shops, barns, garages and some homes. The tradeoff is maintenance: washers age in the sun, and screws can loosen as the metal moves. Over time, they need checking and some replacement. We explain both options and help you decide what fits your building.

What goes under a metal roof

A metal roof is only as good as the layers beneath it. We install high-temperature synthetic underlayment rated for metal, with self-sealing membrane at eaves, valleys and around penetrations. Panels are fastened according to the maker's pattern for the roof's exposure. Closure strips seal the ends of ribs at the ridge and eaves to keep out wind-driven rain, insects and birds. Each layer is chosen to work with the metal.

• High-temperature underlayment rated for metal
• Self-sealing membrane at eaves and valleys
• Closure strips at ridge and eave ends
• Panel clips or fasteners to the maker's pattern
• Vented ridge where attic airflow calls for it

Chimneys, vents and skylights on metal

Penetrations are where metal roofs need the most care. Because panels run in long, continuous lengths, anything that breaks through them, like a chimney, plumbing vent or skylight, has to be flashed so water flowing down the panel is diverted around it. We use metal pipe flashing boots made for the panel profile, custom-bent chimney flashing with a cricket where needed, and curb-mounted skylight kits flashed into the seams. Each one is sealed to the panel profile.

Planning matters here. Before panels go on, we lay out seam locations so penetrations do not land right on a seam, which makes them much harder to seal. When possible, we group vent pipes or move a bath fan vent to a gable wall to reduce openings. Fewer holes in a metal roof means fewer places for leaks to start, which is one reason a good layout up front saves trouble later.

Is metal roofing worth the cost?

Metal roofing usually costs two to three times as much as architectural shingles at installation. It can make financial sense if you plan to stay in the home for many years, since a well-installed standing seam roof can outlast two shingle roofs. It also makes sense under heavy fir cover, where shingles wear quickly from moss and debris, and on rural shops and barns. For a shorter stay or a tight budget, shingles are often the better value.